The Tabbara family, operating a falafel shop in Beirut’s Hamra district for over a century, is transitioning leadership to its fourth generation. According to Asharq Al-Awsat, the business predates Lebanon’s founding and has survived two world wars, the 1982 Israeli invasion, and the nation’s ongoing economic meltdown. Ziad Tabbara, 40, a former accountant who has worked full-time at the shop for six years, is taking over from his 82-year-old father, Mohammed Tabbara.
The shop’s origins trace back to 1914, when Ziad’s great-grandfather, Kamel Tabbara, opened the first location in the Bab Idriss district while Beirut was under Ottoman rule. The business was passed to Kamel’s son, Ahmad, before Mohammed managed it since 1950. The current location has existed since 1979. Mohammed, who began working at age six, describes his tenure as having witnessed "40 wars," referencing various local and regional conflicts.
The falafel uses Australian fava beans rather than chickpeas. Mohammed states fava beans are lighter and easier to digest. The preparation involves soaking beans overnight, grinding them, and mixing them with salt, coriander, and spices. Patties are deep-fried and served in flat bread with pickled cucumber, tomatoes, parsley, tahini, and hot pepper paste. Each sandwich costs approximately $3, an affordable meal in a country grappling with financial mismanagement since 2019.
Mohammed maintains the shop’s reputation for cleanliness by changing oil daily and washing vegetables with vinegar and salt. He introduced a unique patty design with a hole and sesame seeds. Long-time customers, such as Jean Matta, who has eaten there since 1992, praise the food. Mohammed notes he has clients spread across the globe who return for the established flavor. Asharq Al-Awsat reports that Ziad has no children, a point of contention with Mohammed, who desires to see his son married with offspring to continue the lineage.
Ziad, who helped his father during childhood summers, insists the recipe is a heritage passed down through generations. He remains committed to maintaining the shop’s standards, stating he will continue to offer the same flavor "God willing." The transition marks a significant moment for the family as they navigate the challenges of preserving a historic culinary tradition in a modern economic landscape.