Kirsten Leo, founder and CEO of LEO SZN, has been selected as one of 15 finalists for the Création Africa incubation programme, an initiative managed by French diplomatic and cultural bodies in South Africa. According to Daily Maverick, Leo’s firm acts as a bridge between creative talent and commercial opportunity, assisting African fashion designers with operational tasks such as production, pricing, cash flow, and intellectual property. Leo, who describes herself as analytical rather than creative, focuses on transforming design concepts into viable commercial products.

The incubation programme is supporting Leo’s development of the African Luxury Index, a project intended to work with up to 15 designers. Daily Maverick reports that this initiative will guide participants from initial sketches through workshops, ending with a presentation space for retail and boutique buyers. Funding for the project comes from the French Institute and Uber Africa. Leo’s broader vision, presented to the Création Africa panel, is to build an ecosystem comparable to the global luxury group LVMH, creating a network that spans pattern making, manufacturing, and retail to establish "luxury retail mini houses" across the continent.

Leo argues that a primary obstacle for African designers is not a lack of talent or investment, but a failure to be investment-ready. She notes that designers often struggle with business fundamentals required to attract capital, such as compliance and strategic planning. Daily Maverick highlights her view that designers must often overcome pride to seek help, and that artificial intelligence should support operations rather than replace human creativity. The firm’s consulting model involves researching consumer behaviour and trends to advise clients on commercial viability, sometimes telling designers that a creative idea may not suit the current South African market.

The incubation process has also impacted LEO SZN’s internal structure. Leo states that the programme has helped her grow the business from a solo operation into a four-person team and has increased her confidence in client management. Over the past two years, LEO SZN has serviced 28 clients, with at least 26 continuing to develop collections or secure retail placements. Leo emphasizes that the firm’s role is to provide business and technical support behind the creative mind, allowing designers to focus on artistic vision while the firm builds the commercial infrastructure around it.